Changing the Rules of the Game: Sustainable Product Service Systems and Manufacturing in the Fashion Industry
Resumo
A indústria da moda é baseada em uma época passada em que o tempo era linear e o local específico. Essa falta de relevância resulta em uma produção global de roupas cada vez mais ineficiente e destrutiva. As práticas danosas da indústria de confecção da moda não são permissíveis em um tempo que tenha a capacidade de conhecimento e inovações tecnológicas para evitar danos ambientais e desigualdades humanas. Práticas de fabricação prejudiciais nos países em desenvolvimento contribuem para o contínuo escrutínio da indústria, mas a intensificação das expectativas de entrega rápida está na raiz dessas práticas prejudiciais. Há um reconhecimento tácito entre os especialistas da indústria da moda, onde exemplos históricos de manufatura e comércio nos Estados Unidos não atendem às demandas de uma sociedade acostumada ao acesso instantâneo, às constantes mudanças e aos baixos preços. Esses modelos mais lentos e tradicionais de fabricação e comércio complicarão cada vez mais a lucratividade no mercado contemporâneo e ambiental, fazendo com que os problemas sociais continuem.
Portanto, a indústria da moda está em estado de mudança. Simultaneamente, as práticas destrutivas dentro do ciclo de vida das roupas devem diminuir, permanecendo financeiramente sustentáveis. Esse relacionamento binário levanta questões-chave que podem ajudar a liderar a indústria em direção a um futuro melhor. Quais são as possibilidades de fabricação de vestuário nacional que utiliza métodos de produção inovadores, tecnologia de comunicação e sistemas de serviços que, por sua vez, promovem práticas holísticas e sustentáveis? Quais são as possibilidades e necessidades de designers que desejam aproveitar ao máximo um relacionamento crescente entre consumidores e designers? Neste estudo, atenção especial é dada aos novos sistemas de produção e distribuição que mudarão o papel dos designers de moda para o futuro.
Referências
Agid. S. (2008, fall). Re: Imagining Parsons--How Parsons’ new academic structure is shaping design education in the 21st century. Re:D, 26(2), 10-15.
Amed,I., Berg, A., Brantberg,L., Hedrich, S., Leon, J., & Young, R. (2016). The state of fashion. The Business of Fashion. Retrieved from https://www.businessoffashion.com/site/uploads/2016/11/The_State_of_Fashion_2017.pdf
Armstrong, C., Niinimaki, K., Kujala, S., Karell, E., & Lang, C. (2014). Sustainable product service systems for clothing: Exploring consumer perceptions of consumption alternatives. Journal of Cleaner Production, 97, 30-39.
Augé, M. (2008), Non-places: An introduction to supermodernity, New York: Verso.
Ceschin, F. (2013). Critical factors for implementing and diffusing sustainable product service systems: Insights from innovation studies and company’s experiences. Journal of Cleaner Production, 45, 74-88.
Chaudhry, H. & Hodge, G. (2012). Postponement and supply chain structure: Cases from the textile and apparel industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management,16(1), 64-80.
Clifford, S. (2013, September 19). U.S. textile plants return with floors largely empty of people. The New York Times. Retrieved from www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html?
Christopher, M. (2000). The agile supply chain: Competing in volatile markets. Industrial Marketing and Management, 29, 37-44.
Craik, J. (2009). Fashion: The key concepts, New York: Berg.
Fiksel, J. (2003). Designing resilient, sustainable systems. Environmental Science & Technology, 37(23), 5330-5339.
Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. London: Earthscan.
Florida, R. (2002). The learning region. In Gertler, M.S. & Wolfe, D. (Eds.), Innovation and social learning: Institutional adaption in an era of technological change. New York: Palgrave MacMillan.
Gelbmann, U. & Hammerl, B. (2015). Integrative re-use systems as innovative business models for devising sustainable product-service-systems. Journal for Cleaner Production, 97, 50-60.
Glasmeier, A. (1988). Factors governing the development of high tech industry agglomerations: A tale of three cities. Regional Studies, 22.4, 287-301.
Jacob, F. & Ulaga, W. (2008). The transition from product to service in business markets: An agenda for academic inquiry. Industrial Marketing Management, 37, 247-253.
Hagerty, J. & Magnier, M. (2015, January 13). Companies tiptoe back towards ‘made in the USA. The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved from www.wsj.com/articles/companies
Joy, A. Sherry, J., Venkatesh, A., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273-296.
Jung, S. & Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: Sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 510-519.
Kunz G. & Garner, M. (2011). Going global: The textile and apparel industry (2nd Ed.). New York: Fairchild.
Labrianidis, L., Kalantaridis, C., & Dunford, M. (2011). Delocalization of economic activity: Agents, places, and industries. Regional Studies, 45.2, 147-151.
Lee, C.K.C., Levy, D.S., & Yap, C. S. F. (2015). How does the theory of consumption values contribute to place, identity, and sustainable production? International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39, 597-607.
Lu,C. (2014). Zara supply chain analysis: The secret behind Zara’s retail success. Retrieved from www.tradegecko.com/blog
Martinez, V., Bastl, M., Kingston, J., & Evans, S. (2009). Challenges in transforming manufacturing organizations into product service providers. Journal of Manufacturing Technology Management, (21)4, 449-469.
McRobbie, A. (2013). Fashion matters Berlin; City-spaces, women’s working lives, new social enterprise? Cultural Studies, 27(6), 982-1010.
Meyer, A. (2001). What’s in it for the customers? Successfully marketing green clothes. Business Strategy and the Environment, 10, 317-330.
Mudambi, R. (2008). Location, control, and innovation in knowledge intensive industries. Journal of Economic Geography, 8, 699-725.
Muratovski, M. (2010). Design and design research: The conflict between the principles in design education and practices in industry. Design Principles and Practices: An International Journal, 4(2), 377-386.
The Neilsen Company. (2017, May 15). The state of the U.S. beer market. Retrieved from http://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/reports/2017/the-state-of-the-us-beer-market.html
Novellino, T. (2015, July 2). Made in the USA clothing: Rare but worth it. New York Business Journal. Retrieved from www.bizjournals.com/newyork/.../made-in-the-usa-clothingrare-but-worth-it.html
Partington, A. (2014). Class, clothes, and co-creativity. Clothing Cultures, 1(1),7-21.
Pink, D.H. (2005). A Whole new mind: Why right-brainers will rule the future. New York: Riverhead Books.
Rexfelt, O. & Hiort af Ornäs, V. (2009). Consumer acceptance of product service systems: Designing for relative advantages and uncertainty reductions. Journal of Manufacturing Technology Management, (20)5, 674-699.
Shah, D. (2013). Happy-nomics. In Brand, J. & Vos, M. (Eds.), A fashion odyssey: Progress in fashion and sustainability. Arnhem, The Netherlands: ArtEZ Press.
Soper, K. (2008). Alternative hedonism, cultural theory and the role of the aesthetic revisioning. Cultural Studies, 22(5), 567-587.
Van Zandt, D. (2011). Inaugural address. Retrieved from http://www.newschool.edu/leadership/president/installation/
Vezzoli, C., Ceschin, F., Diehl, J.C. & Kohtala, C. (2015). New design challenges to widely implement sustainable product service systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 97, 1-12.
Wolff, L. & Rhee, J. (2009, May). Is design the new liberal arts? Re:D (Regarding Design),(26)6, 9-13.
Zimmerman, E. (2003). Creating a culture of design research: methods and perspective. B. Laurel (Ed.). Cambridge: MIT Press
Los autores/as que publiquen en esta revista ceden los derechos de autor y de publicación a "Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseño y Comunicación", Aceptando el registro de su trabajo bajo una licencia de atribución de Creative Commons, que permite a terceros utilizar lo publicado siempre que de el crédito pertinente a los autores y a esta revista.
