La hibridación de la moda: la teoría del actor-red

  • Ana María Ángeles Martínez Barreiro
Palavras-chave: Moda ; Natureza ; Cultura ; Sustentabilidade ; Consumo ; Ator;Rede (ANT) ; Prática Social (TPS)

Resumo

Nesta situação de pandemia global, o sistema da moda necessita mais do que nunca da constituição de um imaginário novo, mais sustentável e diferente. Onde a proposta de Bruno Latour sobre o hibridismo é enriquecida com sua teoria da rede de atores. O objetivo deste trabalho é desafiar o pensamento convencional do estudo da moda, por meio da teoria da rede de atores (ANT Ator-Rede Teoria) e da teoria das práticas sociais (TPS). Essas abordagens nos dão a oportunidade de ver as continuidades entre as práticas de vestuário e seu impacto ambiental mais amplo e, ao mesmo tempo, nos permitem começar a pensar mais radicalmente sobre como nos conectamos com a natureza e a cultura e, dessa forma, montamos. As relações entre nossos roupas e meio ambiente.

Referências

Bellotti, E. & Mora, E. (2014). Networks of practices in critical consumption, Journal of Consumer Culture, 16 (3), 718-760. Barthes, R. (1967). Sistema de la moda. Barcelona: Gustavo Gili.

Black, S. (2008). Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox. Londres: Black Dog Publishing.

Black, S; Entwistle, E; Rocamora, A; De la haya, A; Root; R; Thomas, H. (2014). The Handbook of Fashion Studies. Londres, Reino Unido: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc.

Bauman, (2007). Vida de consumo. Madrid: Fondo de cultura Económica.

Bovone, L. (2015). Cultura materiale e nuovi valori: il caso della moda etica. Sociología della comunicación, 50, 100-113.

Callon, M. (1986). Some elements of a sociology of translation: Domestication of the scallops and the fishermen of St Brieuc Bay. En: Law, J (ed.) Power, Action, and Belief: A New Sociology of Knowledge?. Londres: Routledge.

Choi, T. M. (2013). Local sourcing and fashion quick response system: The impacts of carbon footprint tax. Transportation Research Part E: Logistics and Transportation Review, (55), 43-54.

Cline, E. (2014). La moda desechable. El escandaloso costo de la moda rápida. Barcelona: Paidós.

Entwistle, J. (2000). The Fashioned Body. Cambridge: Polity Press.

Entwistle, J. (2015). Sustainability and fashion. En Fletcher, K. y Tham, M (eds.). Routledge Handbook of Sustainability and Fashion. Nueva York: Bloomsbury

Entwistle, J. (2016). Bruno Latour: Actor–Network- Theory and Fashion. En Rocamora, A; Smelik, A (eds). Thinking Through Fashion. Londres: I. B. Tauris Co.Ltd.

Entwistle, J. & Slater, D. (2014). Reassembling the Cultural: fashion models, brands and the meaning of ‘culture’ after ANT. Journal of Cultural Economy, 7 (2), 161-177.

Fletcher, K (2008). Sustainable Fashion and Textiles. Design Journey. Earthscan.

Fletcher, K (2010). Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process and the Fashion, 2(2), 259-266.

Fletcher, K & Grose, L (2012). Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change. Laurence King Publishing.

Frisa, María Luisa, (2020). Las formas de moda, cultura, industria, mercado. Buenos Aires: Ampersand.

Gardetti, M. (2018). Textiles y moda. ¿Qué es la sostenibilidad? Madrid: Lid.

Gereffi, G. & Korzeniewicz, M. (1994). Commodity Chains and Global Capitalism. Westport: Greenwood Press.

Kawamura, Y. (2005). Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies. Oxford: Berg.

Klepp, I. G. & Bjerck, M. (2014). A methodological approach to the materiality of clothing: Wardrobe studies. International Journal of Social Research Methodology, 17(4), 373- 386.

Latour, B. (2007). Nunca fuimos modernos, Ensayo de antropología simétrica. Buenos Aires, Argentina: Siglo XXI.

Latour, B. (2008). Reensamblar lo social. Una teoría a la introducción del actor red. Buenos Aires, Argentina: Manantial.

Latour, B. & Woolgar, S. (1995). La vida en el laboratorio. La construcción de los hechos científicos. Madrid: Alianza Universidad.

Li- Edelkoort (2015). Anti-Fashion a manifesto for the next decade, in trendunion.

Lohmeyer, Nor & Schüßler, Elke (2017). Rana Plaza as a threat to the fast fashion model? An analysis of institutional responses to the disaster in Germany. En: Becker-Leifhold, Carolina; Heuer, Mark; (eds.) Eco Friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behavior. Sheffield: Greenleaf Publishing.

Martinez-Barreiro, A. (2012). La cultura del usar y tirar. ¿Un problema de investigación? Revista de Investigaciones Políticas y Sociales, (RIPS). 11 (4) 149-170.

Martinez-Barreiro, A (2021). La sostenibilidad en los estudios de moda. Athenea Digital - 21(1).

Meadows, Donella; Dennis. L. Meadows, D; Randers, J; Behrens.W; otros (1974). Los límites del crecimiento: informe del club de Roma sobre el predicament de la humanidad, México. Fondo de Cultura Económica

Mora. E; Rocamora, A; Volante, P. (2014 a). The internationalization of fashion studies: Rethinking the peer-reviewing process International Journal of Fashion Studies, 1 (1), 3-17.

Mora, E; Rocamora A; Volonté, P. (2014 b).On the issue of sustainability in fashion studies, International Journal of fashion Studies, 11 (2), 139-147.

Pantzar, M.& Shove, E. (2005) Understanding innovation in practice. A discussion of the production and reproduction of Nordic Walking, Technology Analysis and Strategic Management, 22 (4), 447-462.

Rocamora, A & Smelik, A. (eds) (2016). Thinking Through Fashion. Londres: I. B. Taurís. Salcedo, E. (2014). Moda ética para un futuro sostenible. Madrid: Gustavo Gili.

Shove, E. & Pantzar, M. (2010). Consumers, producers and practices: understanding the invention and reinvention of Nordic Walking. Journal of Consumer Culture, 5 (1), 43-64.

Shove, E; Pantzar M; Watson, M. (2012). The Dynamics of Social Practice: Everyday Life and How it changes. Londres: Sage.

Siegle, L. (2011). To Die for: Is Fashion Wearing Out the World? Londres: Fourth Estate.

Skjerven, A. & Reitan, J. (2017). Design for a Sustainable Culture: Perspectives, Practices and Education. Londres: Routledge.

Slater, K. (2003). Environmental Impact of Textiles: Production. Processes and Protection. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited/The Textile Institute.

Warde, A. (2005). Consumption and the theory of practice. Journal of Consumer Culture 5(2): 131-154.

Wallerstein, I. (1974). The modern world system. Nueva York: Academic Press, Berkeley: University of California Press.

Welters, L & Lillethun, A. (2008- 2011). The Fashion Reader. 2nd edn. Oxford: Berg. Woodward, S & Fisher, T (2014). Introduction: Fashioning through materials: Material culture, materiality and processes of materialization. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 5(1), 3-23.

Publicado
2022-01-31
Como Citar
Martínez Barreiro, A. M. Ángeles. (2022). La hibridación de la moda: la teoría del actor-red. Cuadernos Del Centro De Estudios De Diseño Y Comunicación, (150). https://doi.org/10.18682/cdc.vi150.5536